Copyright © 2009

ABOUT FABRICS

The choice of thread and the right size and type of needle for each piece of sewing is very important.

Generally speaking the tread used should share the same characteristics as the fabric, so that it will be absorbed into the garment and when washed and pressed will move with the main body of the fabric.

The needle should be of the correct size so that the thread passes through the eye comfortably without fraying. The needle should also be the right thickness to suit the weight of the fabric and the stitch length should also be adjusted or you may find for example when sewing a light fabric with a heavy needle and too small a stitch you would merely perforate the fabric and weaken it.

Due to the heavy dressing applied to fabrics these days needles tend to blunt very quickly. Change the needle often and make no more than two garments or the equivalent with a needle.

Always set your tensions and stitch length on an off-cut of the material to be sewn before commencing.

SYNTHETIC FABRICS

Nylons, acrylics and polyesters are chemically extracted from crude oil and coal products. Threads used in the sewing of these should be also synthetic as they are very strong and don't shrink or rot. Use polyester threads on these fabrics. On the stretchy, knitted type of fabric a Ball Point Needle should also be used.

NON WOVEN FABRICS - Jersey or Knits

These can be natural, man-made or synthetic fibers. A Ball Point Needle should be used to sew these so that it can slip through the loops of the knitted material without piercing them. A polyester thread should be used when sewing these fabrics.

FELT

This type of fabric is manufactured by matting wool and hair fibers and needs to be handled with care so that no distortion takes place. Sew with cotton, silk or polyester with about 8-10 stitches to the inch (25mm). To avoid distortion when sewing, if you have an adjustable feed dog you should lower the teeth slightly. If not try lightening the pressure on the presser foot slightly.

LEATHER & PLASTICS

Imitation leathers are usually manufactured by spreading a plastic film over a knitted or woven fabric. When sewing these and Leathers great care should be taken to not puncture the surface unnecessarily therefore use a long stitch and the special needles available to give better penetration. To reduce the chance of the material sticking to the presser foot, use a roller type presser foot.

MAN-MADE FIBRES

Rayon, acetate and triacetate are derived from cellulose and woven into traditional fabrics. These fabrics can be sewn with cotton, silk or polyester threads.

West Sussex  &  adjoining parts of Hampshire & Surrey